Yağlıdere Kırkharman Church in Giresun, Türkiye, is a free-to-visit basilica built around 1850 on a plateau in Akpınar Village, featuring Ionic column capitals and three barrel-vaulted naves, protected since the 1940s by a local family.
Kırkharman Church stands in the middle of the plateaus, within the borders of Akpınar Village in Yağlıdere. According to sources, its construction date is around 1850; some local narratives trace this date back to the 1800s. What is certain is that it was never reopened for worship after the population exchange, but it was also not demolished.
The church has a three-nave basilica plan. The ceiling is divided into three sections, built in the form of a barrel vault with rubble stone. The four piers supporting the upper covering have Ionic-style column capitals. Its entrance is on the west facade, surrounded by a rectangular stone jamb, and a niche above the door attracts attention. The Trabzon Cultural and Natural Heritage Preservation Board registered the structure in 2003.
A local farmer named Adnan Zıvalı protects the church from treasure hunters, a duty he inherited from his father and grandfather; the family has been doing this since the 1940s. Officials from the Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism state that it is the only church in the region that has survived on its own, and other Greek structures in the vicinity were not so lucky. The fact that it has not been restored makes the structure fragile, but it has also preserved its original texture to this day.
Guide's Note
Best Time to Visit
The road leading to Kırkharman Plateau becomes difficult with snow and mud in winter. The period from late spring to early autumn is more comfortable. In summer, the region comes alive with plateau tourism, which also offers the opportunity to see the stone houses and plateau life in the vicinity while visiting the church.
How to Get There?
From Giresun city center, it takes approximately 45 minutes by road to Yağlıdere district. The road extending from the district to Akpınar Village and then to Kırkharman Plateau is largely stabilized and unpaved. If you are going by your own vehicle, it is advisable to get information about the road conditions from the district center. Public transportation options are limited; access by private vehicle or local dolmuş is more practical.
How Much Time Should You Allocate?
The church itself is a small structure, taking 30-45 minutes to visit. However, since the journey is long, instead of dedicating the day solely to this church, adding other plateaus in and around Yağlıdere to your itinerary will allow you to use your time more efficiently.
Suggested Itinerary
Start from Giresun city center, take a short break in Yağlıdere district center, then proceed to Kırkharman Plateau via Akpınar Village. After visiting the church, you can spend some time in the vicinity to see the other plateaus and stone house structures in the region. Çıkrıkkapı Plateau, connected to Alucra district, can also be added to the itinerary as a nearby point.
Things to Pay Attention To
The structure has never been restored; the stone walls and vaulted ceiling remain in their original state. This means that some sections may be fragile. Be careful when entering, and be cautious of falling stone fragments. Since treasure hunting attempts have caused problems in the past, absolutely avoid digging or excavating in the area.
Photography Spots
The rectangular stone-jambed entrance on the west facade and the niche above it are the most original details of the structure. Inside, the Ionic-capital piers and the barrel-vaulted ceiling are suitable for wide-angle shots. The plateau landscape and stone houses around the church can also be included in the frame. The light coming towards noon makes the stone texture more prominent.
The Story of the Church
Kırkharman Church could have remained as one of the thousands of Greek structures abandoned after the population exchange. But it didn't. Adnan Zıvalı and his family have taken on the responsibility of protecting the church from treasure hunters and destruction for generations, since the 1940s. The structure, which was also occasionally used for storing goods, has survived to this day without official restoration. This is its most important feature that distinguishes it from similar ones in the region.
This content originates from neresigezilir.com.tr and may not be copied without permission.
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