Çinili Mosque is an Ottoman mosque built in 1640 by Kösem Sultan in Üsküdar, Istanbul. Known for its Iznik tiles covering the interior, the structure can be visited for free and is an active place of worship.
Çinili Mosque takes its name from the Iznik tiles that cover its interior from top to bottom. It was built between 1638-1640 by Mahpeyker Kösem Sultan. Kösem Sultan, wife of Sultan Ahmed I and mother of Murad IV and Ibrahim I, was the most influential figure of the period known as the Sultanate of Women in 17th-century Ottoman politics. Its architect, Kasım Ağa, was a successor of the Mimar Sinan school. The mosque is not as large as the grand imperial mosques, but it forms a balanced composition with its single-domed space, portico at the entrance, and elegant minaret.
Inside, tulip, carnation, and hyacinth motifs in cobalt blue, turquoise, green, and coral red tones adorn the walls. These tiles date to the first half of the 17th century; they are considered among the last great productions of the Iznik workshops before their decline. Visitors often describe how the light entering through the windows brings the glazed surfaces to life, finding the mosque small but with an intense atmosphere. One comment notes that outside of prayer times, only the exterior tiles can be seen, and a visit outside of prayer times should be planned to see the interior.
The mosque was built as part of a complex (külliye) comprising a madrasah, a public fountain (sebil), a primary school (mektep), and a Turkish bath (hamam). Although the bath and school have undergone changes over time, the külliye's layout is still discernible. It is a structure untouched by tourist crowds, located in a quiet neighborhood of Üsküdar, away from the throngs of Sultanahmet or Süleymaniye.
Related discoveries: Places to visit in Istanbul, Historical Places, Historical places in Istanbul, Büyük Mecidiye Mosque (Ortaköy Mosque).
Guide's Note
Çinili Mosque attracts visitors as a small-scale neighborhood mosque from the Ottoman period. The historical Kütahya tiles inside and the general architectural craftsmanship elevate the place beyond an ordinary place of worship; many visitors find this historical texture worth seeing up close. It also attracts foreign visitors; the tile decorations, in particular, are highly praised.
It is noted that there are graves and a tile workshop in the mosque's courtyard; however, there is a lack of on-site information regarding whether the workshop is active and to whom the graves belong. If you plan to visit the site, it may be beneficial to do some research beforehand on these matters.
- Access issue outside prayer times: At least one visitor reported that when they arrived outside of prayer times, the attendant refused to open the door and they encountered rude behavior. This situation can cause serious disappointment for visitors coming from afar; it is recommended to plan your visit according to prayer times.
- Lack of information: There is no explanatory information on-site about the graves in the courtyard and the tile workshop.
When to Visit
Since the mosque is actively used for worship, it is difficult to enter the interior during prayer times. Visitors have learned this from experience: when visiting outside of prayer times, all the tiles can be seen; otherwise, one might have to settle for the exterior. Late mornings and afternoons, especially on days other than Friday prayer, are more suitable. Check current prayer times before you go.
How to Get There
Reaching Üsküdar Pier by ferry and then walking along Çavuşdere Street from in front of Mihrimah Mosque is the classic route; it takes about half an hour. For those who prefer not to walk, there are bus and minibus lines that stop at Bağlarbaşı, from where the mosque is a few minutes' walk. For those coming from Kadıköy or Beşiktaş, the ferry and walk combination is both scenic and practical.
Location within Üsküdar
The mosque is located on Çinili Hamam Street in the Murat Reis neighborhood, close to Bağlarbaşı. Since it is slightly inland from Üsküdar's coastline, tourist density is low; the neighborhood fabric is still part of daily life. Other Üsküdar mosques nearby, such as Şakirin Mosque and Valide-i Atik Mosque, can also be visited in a short time.
How Much Time to Allocate
Since the mosque is small, 20-30 minutes is sufficient. However, those who want to examine the tiles in detail and observe the changing light might spend more than half an hour. It can be combined with other Üsküdar attractions (Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, Şemsi Pasha, the coastline) for a half-day Üsküdar tour.
Good Spots for Photos
Inside, the tile panels around the mihrab are the most densely patterned section. Colors appear more vibrant during hours when light from the window hits the glazed surface. From the outside, the minaret and the entrance portico are also simple but photogenic. If the mosque is not crowded, there is a high chance for calm interior shots, and working with natural light without a tripod or flash yields the best results.
Things to Pay Attention To
As it is an active place of worship, modest clothing is required; headscarves for women are usually available at the entrance. Shoes are removed at the entrance. During prayer, it is more appropriate to wait on the side or prefer to visit after prayer rather than walking around inside. Wheelchair access is not available, so entry may be difficult for visitors with mobility limitations.
Kösem Sultan and the Külliye
The mosque was designed not as a standalone structure but as part of a külliye: a madrasah, a ablution fountain, a public fountain (sebil), a primary school (mektep), and a Turkish bath (hamam). Although some of these structures have undergone changes over time, the basic layout is still visible. Kösem Sultan's construction of this külliye was a reflection of the influence she held in the palace during her era; the structure was designed as both a religious and social center.
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