Karahöyük is a mound located east of Eskişehir on the banks of the Porsuk River, containing the remains of the ancient city of Midaion, attributed to the Phrygian King Midas; it holds archaeological significance with its Cybele altar, rock-cut tombs, and structure as high as a five-story building.
Karahöyük is located within the borders of Alpu district, approximately 700 meters north of the Eskişehir-Alpu road. The ancient name of the mound is Midaion; this settlement, believed to have been founded by the Phrygian King Midas, is among the well-known large mounds of Eskişehir. It is situated right next to the Porsuk River, in a dominant position overlooking the Alpu Plain. From the outside, it might look like an ordinary pile of earth; once you enter and start walking, the scale changes. Those who say it is five stories high are not exaggerating.
There are two prominent structures in the area. The altar dedicated to Cybele, a rock arrangement belonging to the central goddess of the Phrygian religion, is a point frequently noted by visitors. The system of water cisterns extending in the back part of the mound, on the other hand, is found by visitors to be structures of unusual scale. In addition to these, there is stone craftsmanship on the rock surfaces combining snake and human face motifs; it is not noticed without careful observation. The paths become unclear at some points. Before moving to the more distant parts of the mound, it is useful to get information from Veysel Abi, the attendant at the entrance: the former headman, who has been working here for years, knows the area and its artifacts intimately.
Excavation and conservation efforts have not yet reached a sufficient level, and the information infrastructure is limited. But this does not make the visit meaningless; a quiet Phrygian experience away from the crowds emerges. It can be considered as a stop when passing through Eskişehir or as a planned detour on the Afyon route.
Related discoveries: Historical Places, Eskişehir historical places, Han Underground City and Surroundings.
Guide's Note
What is Midaion?
Midaion is an ancient settlement believed to have been founded by the Phrygian King Midas. This area, known today as Karahöyük, rises on the banks of the Porsuk River, east of Eskişehir. The mound stands out prominently from its surroundings with its dominant position overlooking the Alpu Plain. From the outside, it might look like an ordinary pile of earth; once you enter and start walking, the scale changes. Those who say it is five stories high are not exaggerating.
The area houses rock craftsmanship, water management structures, and cult sites belonging to the Phrygian civilization. Excavation work is ongoing, and the conservation and information infrastructure is not yet fully established. This makes the visit somewhat of an exploration.
When to Visit?
Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are the most suitable periods. There is no shade on the mound; walking during midday in mid-July-August can be tiring. Visiting between 08:00-09:00 in the morning or from 16:00 onwards in the afternoon provides a more comfortable visit.
In rainy weather, the dirt paths of the mound can become muddy. Sturdy shoes are a valid recommendation for all seasons.
How to Get There?
Approximately 30 km from Eskişehir city center via D-200 highway towards Alpu. It is located 700 meters north of the Eskişehir-Alpu road, within the borders of Karahöyük Village. Going by car is the most practical option; typing 'Karahöyük Village, Alpu' into navigation is sufficient.
For those who want to go by public transport, there are buses or dolmuşes from Eskişehir bus terminal to Alpu. From Alpu, the mound can be reached by taxi. For a day trip to be added to an Eskişehir program, renting a car or using a private vehicle is more suitable.
Photo Spots
From the summit of the mound, the plain extending to the Alpu Plain and the Porsuk River offers a good setting for wide-angle shots. The rock surface of the Cybele altar becomes prominent especially in the morning light; texture and shadow plays come out clearly.
The stones with snake and human face motifs on the rock surfaces contain interesting details for close-up shots. The interior of the cistern section offers a different perspective; a flashlight or phone light is useful.
Things to Pay Attention To
In some parts of the area, there are no or very unclear road signs. It is important to get information from the attendant at the entrance before going to the back and distant parts of the mound; the risk of getting lost is real.
Since excavation and conservation work is ongoing, some areas may be closed. Sturdy hiking shoes are essential. It's a good idea to bring water; there are no facilities nearby.
Route Suggestion
For those leaving Eskişehir and using the Afyon route, Karahöyük is a natural stopover. Visiting Eskişehir in the morning and then Karahöyük in the afternoon, arriving in Afyon in the evening, is a suitable pace.
If you are planning an Eskişehir-focused program, visit the museums in the city center and Odunpazarı in the morning; then go to Karahöyük in the afternoon. The visit rarely exceeds 2 hours, and you can take a break in Alpu on the way back.
What to Eat Nearby?
There are no food and beverage facilities immediately around the mound. In Alpu district center, there are small restaurants that meet basic needs. For more comprehensive options, you need to return to Eskişehir city center.
It is practical to bring water and light snacks with you before your visit; keep in mind that there is no shade on the mound, especially in summer.
FAQ
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