Haho Church, located in Bağbaşı village of Tortum district, Erzurum, is a structure built by Georgian King David III between 976-1001, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and converted into a mosque in the 19th century; it still preserves lion, bull, eagle reliefs on its walls and Bible scene frescoes in its interior.
The old name of Bağbaşı village is Haho. The church is known by this name, but the villagers now call it Taş Cami (Stone Mosque). The structure was built by Georgian Bagratid King David III between 976-1001, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. An inscription carved on the pier at the south entrance confirms this date. Used as a monastery in the Middle Ages, works on literature and philosophy were produced and translations were made here until the mid-16th century. Beyond being an ordinary place of worship, it was a center of knowledge.
Its architecture is a combination of a closed Greek cross and a basilica plan. The apse section rises like a tower, covered by a high-drummed dome and a conical roof. The dome is covered with red and dark blue glazed tiles; this color combination both protected the structure and added a striking appearance from the outside. Entry is through the round-arched door in the middle of the long sides.
On the walls are reliefs of lions, bulls, eagles, and griffins. These are very finely carved into the stone. The apse and interior walls are adorned with frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible, with images of Jesus and Mary still discernible. Although it began to be used as a mosque in the 19th century, these traces of the Christian period have been largely preserved. Today, it is visited as both a religious and historical site.
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Guide's Note
When to Visit
Tortum and its surroundings are a high-altitude region, and roads can become difficult in winter. The period from late May to October is more comfortable in terms of both weather and road conditions. During the summer months, it makes sense to plan it with other stops in the region (such as Tortum Waterfall, Tortum Lake), as a special trip to Bağbaşı village requires some distance.
How to Get There
From Erzurum center to Tortum is approximately 85 km, taking one and a half to two hours by road. It is possible to reach Tortum by public transport, but continuing to Bağbaşı village requires a vehicle, making it a practical option. Consider going by your own car or a rental car from Erzurum; careful driving is required on the narrow village roads.
How Much Time to Allocate
30-45 minutes is enough to visit the structure itself. However, considering the distance from Erzurum center, it is more efficient to combine the day with other points in the Tortum region (waterfall, lake, nearby villages if any) and allocate half a day.
Suggested Itinerary
Leaving Erzurum early in the morning, first stopping at Tortum Waterfall, then proceeding to Bağbaşı village to visit Haho Church is a logical sequence. Taking a break by Tortum Lake on the way back is an option that completes the day. The entire route can be easily completed in one day.
Photo Spots
From the outside, the red-dark blue glazed tile dome and conical roof are the most striking shots. The inscribed pier at the south entrance and the stone craftsmanship around the door are also suitable for close-ups. Inside, frescoes and reliefs require shooting without flash, as the structure is still open for worship.
Things to Pay Attention To
The structure actively functions as a mosque, so it is necessary to be quiet during the visit and pay attention to prayer times. Following the guidance of the staff is important for both the preservation of the structure and a respectful visit. The village road is narrow in some sections, and there is a risk of icing in winter months.
Historical Background
Haho Monastery was an important religious and educational center in the region during the Middle Ages. Until the mid-16th century, works of literature, poetry, and philosophy were produced and translations were made here. This shows that the structure was not only a place of worship but also a center of thought. Although its function changed with its conversion into a mosque in the 19th century, its architectural and artistic layers have largely survived to the present day.
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