Behram Pasha Mosque is an Ottoman-era mosque designed by Mimar Sinan between 1564-1572, located next to the Cheese Makers' Bazaar in Diyarbakır's Sur district. The single-domed structure, built from cut basalt stone, can be visited free of charge.
Rising in the heart of Diyarbakır's historic walled city, right next to the Cheese Makers' Bazaar (Peynirciler Çarşısı), the Behram Pasha Mosque is the most important religious structure remaining from the Ottoman period in the city. Built between 1564-1572, the mosque is considered the trace of Mimar Sinan, the great master of Ottoman architecture, in Diyarbakır. Although the structure initially gives the impression of a simple single-domed mosque, a closer inspection reveals intricate stone craftsmanship on its interior and exterior surfaces, a double-porticoed last prayer section (son cemaat yeri), and a sacristy arrangement, surprising visitors.
This single-domed, single-minaret structure, built entirely from cut basalt stone, holds a special place for its synthesis of Diyarbakır's unique black stone tradition with classical Ottoman architecture. The mosque was originally planned as a complex (külliye), with Behram Pasha's residence also designed as part of this complex. The residence is a two-story building divided into two sections, east and south; it is considered one of the finest examples of civil Ottoman architecture in the region. During restoration work, historical stair remnants, revealing the mosque's excellent construction technique, also came to light.
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Guide's Note
Best Time to Visit
Diyarbakır has a very hot climate in summer; temperatures can exceed 40 degrees Celsius in July-August. Therefore, April-June and September-October are much more comfortable options for visiting Behram Pasha Mosque and the surrounding historical structures. Although the weather is cold and sometimes rainy in winter, the historic Sur district offers a calm atmosphere; this period can also be a good opportunity for photography.
In terms of daily hours, the early hours after morning prayer are the most suitable time to quietly explore the interior and courtyard of the mosque. Midday can be both hot and busy. It is more practical to plan your visit for a different time due to the crowd that gathers for prayer before and during Friday prayer.
How to Get to Diyarbakır and the Mosque
The most practical way to reach Diyarbakır is by plane; the city's airport is connected by regular flights from many major cities. From the airport to the city center, you can easily take a taxi or shuttle. For those who wish to come by train, Diyarbakır Station is functional, but travel times can be long. Those who prefer buses can find comfortable services from major cities.
Behram Pasha Mosque is located within the historic Sur district, right next to the Cheese Makers' Bazaar. It is within walking distance from the city center. Entering the historic city walls from Dağkapı or Urfa Gate and walking to the mosque is both enjoyable and recommended for getting to know the surrounding historical fabric. City minibuses frequently run to the Sur district; taxis are also always an accessible option.
Photo Spots
Behram Pasha Mosque is one of the structures that best reflects Diyarbakır's characteristic black basalt stone craftsmanship. The stone decorations on the exterior facade offer extremely impressive views in the morning light or during the golden hour. The view of the dome from the mosque's courtyard provides a strong composition for architectural photography.
Shots taken through the columns and arches of the double-porticoed last prayer section also offer a good opportunity to capture striking frames. As you approach the mosque from the Cheese Makers' Bazaar, the mosque's minaret, combined with the historic bazaar texture, also creates an interesting perspective. A wide-angle lens is very useful for fully framing the interior's dome and decorations.
What to Eat Nearby?
The Cheese Makers' Bazaar and the Sur district, immediately surrounding the Behram Pasha Mosque, are an excellent starting point for experiencing Diyarbakır cuisine. Diyarbakır's symbol, ciğer sarma (liver wrap), can be found fresh in the restaurants of this historic district. For breakfast, restaurants offering local delicacies unique to Diyarbakır, such as kaburga dolması (stuffed ribs) and meftune, line the area.
Herbed cheese and civil cheese, available from the Cheese Makers' Bazaar, are also among Diyarbakır's unique flavors. For lunch, the long-established restaurants within Sur offer both affordable and authentic experiences. Small tea houses in the bazaar can also be preferred for drinking tea and resting.
Suggested Itinerary: Historic Tour of Sur
Visiting Behram Pasha Mosque not in isolation, but as part of a walking route exploring the historic fabric of the Sur district, provides a much more enriching experience. You can start early in the morning from the Diyarbakır Walls, proceed to Urfa Gate, and from there reach Behram Pasha Mosque via the Cheese Makers' Bazaar. After the mosque, you can visit the Grand Mosque (Ulu Cami) and the Kasım Pasha Mosque, both within walking distance.
In the afternoon, heading towards the Hevsel Gardens and seeing the historic walls from a different angle completes the route. This entire route can be completed on foot; since the Sur district is largely closed to vehicle traffic, walking is both safe and enjoyable. A half-day program comfortably covers this route.
Things to Know Before Visiting
Behram Pasha Mosque is an active place of worship. During your visit, it is necessary to dress modestly; female visitors are expected to cover their heads. Shoes must be removed at the entrance of the mosque. Please be mindful to be quiet when taking photos and walking around, so as not to disturb those praying during prayer times.
Some streets in the historic Sur district are narrow and cobblestoned; choosing comfortable walking shoes will make your trip easier. Wheelchair access is limited due to the historical nature of the structure. Being careful against minor pickpocketing incidents in the surrounding bazaar is also a general travel tip.
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